Last week, during the island's full moon ceremony (purnama) at Toya Pakeh, I left the offerings and incense long enough to dive back into the sea with my camera. The ceremony's lantern glow still hung on the shoreline as I climbed into the boat with Pak Made from Penida Dive Center — that mix of sacred ash and salty spray is my fuel. That evening set the thread for everything below: cultural rhythm, lunar light, and timing for manta behavior that every underwater photographer on this island must respect.

Main gear and why I choose it

On Nusa Penida I shoot with a mirrorless full-frame (Sony a7R IV) in a Nauticam housing and two strobes on arms. If you travel light, a compact like the Olympus TG‑7 or a GoPro Hero11 with a flat port and red filter will work. Below are the focused recommendations I use and rent locally.

Essential equipment list

• Wide-angle setup: Full-frame or APS-C with 16–35mm (or fisheye 8–15mm) in a proper dome port.
• Macro setup: 60–105mm macro lens with a macro wet diopter (0.5–1.5x).
• Strobes: Two strobes (manual preferred) with arms — TTL on strong currents is unreliable here.
• Accessories: Red filter for GoPro, dome port cleaner, laminated dive cheat-sheet with camera settings, extra O-rings, silica gel.
• Rentals: Penida Dive Center rents housings/strobes (estimate IDR 350,000–600,000 / day ≈ USD 22–38), and Warung Sunrise in Toya Pakeh can point you to local gear sellers.

Camera settings and techniques (step-by-step)

These are the concrete camera settings I used during the full moon week at the three main sites: Manta Point (cleaning stations), Crystal Bay (wide-angle scenery & mola mola in season), and SD / Blue Corner (reef shots).

Wide-angle (manta and reef)

• Mode: Manual.
• ISO: 200–400 (raise to 800 in early morning dives around the full moon when ambient light is low).
• Aperture: f/8–f/11 to keep both diver and manta sharp.
• Shutter: 1/125–1/250 to freeze motion; use faster if strobes overpower water movement.
• Strobes: Start at -1/3 EV when close to a manta to avoid hotspots; set to manual and adjust for backscatter.
• White balance: 5600K custom underwater or use RAW and correct on land.
• Tip: During the full moon week mantas in the cleaning stations at coordinates -8.7650, 115.4638 (approx. Manta Point) will hover differently — pre-dive brief with captain about currents is essential.

Macro (nudibranchs, pygmy seahorses)

• Mode: Aperture priority or Manual.
• ISO: 100–200.
• Aperture: f/9–f/16 for depth of field.
• Shutter: 1/125–1/200 (strobe sync).
• Focus: Manual focus preferred; use focus light briefly only when necessary to avoid spooking small critters.

Timing, tides and the full moon effect

The full moon changes currents and manta cleaning behavior. Last week I noticed mantas staying later into the afternoon, likely reacting to plankton shifts. Practical schedule I follow:

• Morning boat (first run 07:00): Best for Crystal Bay visibility and serene reef photos.
• Midday (10:00–13:00): Stronger currents at Manta Point; only go with experienced skippers (Pak Made, contact through Penida Dive Center booking).
• Evening/Full Moon nights: Leave cameras on shore; attend the ceremony, respect offerings and light discipline—locals (Pak Putu, Bu Sari) appreciate tourists who ask before photographing temples.

Costs, local businesses and booking details

I base my trips from Toya Pakeh or Sampalan because they are closest to the main dive sites and have the best local support.

Service	Typical cost (IDR)	Approx USD	Notes
Speedboat Sanur–Penida return	IDR 150,000–300,000	USD 10–20	Book early (07:00 departures fill fast during purnama week)
Single-day 2-dive trip (local operator)	IDR 600,000–1,200,000	USD 40–80	Includes tanks; ask about camera/dry storage
Housing/strobe rental	IDR 350,000–600,000	USD 22–38	Reserve 24–48 hours; limited stock during ceremonies
Scooter rental (day)	IDR 80,000–150,000	USD 5–10	Helmets included; roads steep near cliffs
Guesthouse (budget to mid)	IDR 150,000–600,000/night	USD 10–40	Warung Sunrise (breakfast), Bu Sari homestay in Toya Pakeh are reliable

Booking tips and contacts

• Book dive boats with Penida Dive Center (look for Pak Made as contact) 48–72 hours in advance during full moon week.
• Fast boat lines: book Sanur departures in the morning; a 07:00 boat is about 30–45 minutes to Toya Pakeh.
• Rent camera gear 24 hours before diving at the shop in Toya Pakeh to test O-rings; Warung Sunrise owner Ibu Sari can hold deposits for you if shipping is delayed.

Insider cost-saving tricks

• Share strobes: Travel with a buddy and split rental fees — I often share a pair with Pak Ketut (IDR 175,000 each).
• Stay local: Book homestays (Bu Sari, IDR 200k/night) that provide early breakfast and free pickup to the jetty; saves on taxi time and morning rush.
• Combine trips: Book a 3‑dive day with the same operator and negotiate camera rental discount — I got 15% off for 3 days during purnama last week.

Safety warnings (real incidents I saw)

• Strong surges at Manta Point can separate divers—always do the surface marker buoy (SMB) and never chase mantas. I once watched a diver get separated for 20 minutes until the boat picked him up; bring a whistle attached to your BCD.
• River runoff after heavy rains reduces visibility at Crystal Bay. Last monsoon I canceled ops for two days; always check with local captain about runoff before diving.
• Road safety: the climb from Toya Pakeh to Gamat Bay has loose gravel. Rent a scooter only if confident; otherwise take a driver (IDR 300k–400k/day).

Cultural etiquette for photographers

• Ask permission before photographing people during temple rites — at the purnama last week Pak Putu insisted tourists remove hats and keep distance.
• Do not step on coral for a better shot. If a local guide tells you to stay back, listen — Bu Sari educates guests on reef respect before dives.
• Learn these phrases: "Terima kasih" (teh-ree-mah kah-see — thank you), "Permisi" (pehr-mee-see — excuse me), "Boleh foto?" (boh-lay foh-toh — can I take a photo?). Guides respond well when you try Bahasa Indonesia.

Troubleshooting common problems

• Backscatter: Move strobes further from camera axis and lower power. During one cleaning-station pass last week I solved backscatter by pulling strobes to 50cm arms and dropping power to -1/2 EV.
• Fog inside housing: Use silica gel packs and a small anti-fog insert; check O-rings in sunlight at least 30 minutes before the dive.
• Focus hunting: Pre-focus on a steady object at similar distance and switch to manual if needed.

Logistics, facilities and emergency info

Nearest ATM and larger markets are in Toya Pakeh and Sampalan (open ~08:00–20:00). For serious medical emergencies you will be referred to RSUD Klungkung on the mainland. Key numbers and contacts I use:

• Indonesia emergency: 112 (national emergency number)
• Local dive operator (example): Penida Dive Center — ask for Pak Made upon booking (WhatsApp recommended; reserve 48–72 hrs during ceremonies)
• Local clinic: Puskesmas Nusa Penida (visit in Sampalan for minor injuries; opening hours 08:00–15:00 weekdays)

Photography & Instagram tips

• Shoot vertical for Instagram Reels when recording manta approaches; 9:16 crops better when you keep the manta centered.
• Use slow-motion 60fps for manta wingbeats and speed-ramp to normal for dramatic reels — I edit with a short ambient track from the purnama night to tie cultural context to your feed.
• Caption in both English and Bahasa — locals appreciate the effort and often share your posts (try: "Purnama di Penida — melihat manta pada malam setelah upacara").

Conclusion — my recommended plan (3-day itinerary)

Day 1: Arrive Toya Pakeh, settle at Bu Sari homestay (IDR 200k/night), rent gear and brief with Pak Made. Day 2: Early Crystal Bay + SD (wide-angle & macro). Day 3: Manta Point late morning; attend a short purnama ceremony the night before to respect local rhythm — and you might get unique lunar-lit shore shots that tie your underwater photos to the island's culture. Bring patience, respect, and the right settings: Manual mode, strobes dialed low, and an appreciation for the island’s pace — that’s how I captured the best mantas last week, under a still-smelling incense sky.

Personal note: If you want, I can check dates and availability with Penida Dive Center and Bu Sari, and draft a focused camera settings sheet tailored to your camera model. Sampai jumpa di laut (see you at sea) — Pebri.