Traditional Ceremonies on Nusa Penida — Insider Guide
When I first brought a group of trainee dive instructors to Nusa Penida, we thought the island’s lessons would all be underwater. Three days later, soaked from a training drift dive and smelling of reef gear, we were swept into a temple procession in Ped. I remember Pak Made — my dive-boat captain and long-time friend — guiding my students to kneel respectfully while Bu Sari, the temple keeper, sprinkled holy water on our wetsuits. That afternoon taught us more about risk management, timing and cultural humility than any classroom session.
Why you’ll encounter ceremonies during your Nusa Penida itinerary
Nusa Penida is small (about 200 km²) but rich in temple life. Ceremonies — odalan (temple anniversaries), melasti (water purification), galungan and kuningan (major Balinese festivals), and local ngaben (cremation rites) — happen year-round and often coincide with dive training schedules because many dive instructors live and teach here. From my experience training new instructors, timing your itinerary to include a ceremony can transform a tourist visit into a cultural apprenticeship.
Common ceremonies you might see (and where)
- Odalan (Temple Anniversary) — frequent, especially at Pura Dalem Ped (GPS: -8.7179, 115.4976). Expect processions and offerings. Likelihood: high if visiting villages of Ped, Batununggul or Toya Pakeh.
- Melasti — held before Nyepi; large beach purification at the west coast (near Seganing & Crystal Bay, GPS: -8.7210, 115.4635). Very photogenic at dawn.
- Galungan & Kuningan — island-wide; penjor-lined roads and temple crowds for 10 days. Best seen in Ped and Banjar Nyuh.
- Ngaben (Cremation) — rare but profound; if invited, attend quietly and follow local guidance — do not photograph sensitive moments.
Practical logistics: timing, costs and how to fit ceremonies into your itinerary
When I schedule an IDC (Instructor Development Course) or Divemaster training, I always leave a buffer day for ceremonies. Trip logistics below reflect what I use when training:
- Fast boat from Sanur to Toya Pakeh: IDR 150,000–250,000 (USD 10–17). Travel time 30–40 minutes. Boats run 06:30–16:30; book the morning run if you want to reach Melasti at sunrise.
- Scooter rental: Dewa Scooter Rental in Toya Pakeh — IDR 80,000/day (USD 5.50) + IDR 200,000 deposit. Fuel ~IDR 30,000/tank. Travel times: Toya Pakeh to Ped 25–35 minutes (rough roads), Toya Pakeh to Crystal Bay 20–30 minutes.
- Local warungs for ceremony day meals: Warung Sunrise (Toyapakeh) — typical nasi campur IDR 25,000 (USD 1.75). Bring cash: many ceremonies are in villages without card facilities.
Booking tips
- Ask your dive operator one week ahead if they know local temple calendars. Operators I trust when training are Penida Dive Center and Penida Xplorer (book via WhatsApp). They can confirm if a temple odalan aligns with your dates.
- For major festivals (Galungan/Kuningan), book accommodation early — Semabu Hills Hotel fills fast. Expect price surges of 20–40% during big festivals.
What to bring and how to prepare
- Light sarong and sash (kain + selendang) — many temples require both. Buy from Bu Sari’s stall in Ped: sarong IDR 60,000 (USD 4), sash IDR 15,000 (USD 1).
- Small cash for offerings (can be handed to the temple keeper) — IDR 10,000–50,000.
- Camera gear: extra battery, small bag, polarizer for bright beach processions.
- Respectful footwear: closed shoes okay but remove at temple entrance.
Photography & Instagram tips — angles that work during ceremonies
Because I train new instructors who are also learning underwater photography, I apply the same discipline to ceremony shooting: plan the shot, be respectful and keep movement minimal.
- Wide-angle environmental shots — use 16–35mm for processions with penjor (tall bamboo poles). Best at golden hour; stand low, include penjor reaching skyward to emphasize scale.
- Portraits — 50mm or 85mm, aperture f/2.8–4 for subject isolation. Always ask permission: say "Boleh foto?" (boh-lay fo-toh?) meaning "May I take a photo?"
- Detail/offerings — close-ups at f/4–8; use manual focus for small sesajen (offerings) and shoot at waist height to match the maker’s perspective.
- Motion shots — for dancers or carrying towers, use shutter 1/125–1/250 to freeze movement, or 1/30–1/60 with panning for motion blur.
- Underwater storytelling — when training while ceremonies are happening, capture monks or priests blessing boats: try a waterproof compact or a split-shot (half above, half below) to tie the ritual to your dive day.
Step-by-step: How to attend (my exact routine when training students)
- Confirm ceremony day with a local contact (Pak Made or your dive operator) 48–72 hours prior.
- Arrive 30–45 minutes early to greet Bu Sari or the temple committee and ask permission to photograph.
- Wear a sarong & sash. If you don’t have one, borrow from the temple (donation appreciated: IDR 20,000–50,000).
- Stay to the side of processions, never step on offerings. If unsure, follow a local’s lead.
- If invited by a priest to be blessed, hands folded, bow slightly and accept holy water with respect.
Costs comparison (common ceremony-related expenses)
| Item | Typical Cost (IDR) | Approx USD | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fast boat (Sanur <-> Toya Pakeh) | IDR 150,000–250,000 | USD 10–17 | Book morning runs; price varies by operator |
| Scooter rental (Dewa Scooter) | IDR 80,000/day + deposit 200,000 | USD 5.5/day + deposit | Ask for helmet; check brakes — steep roads |
| Sarong + sash (Bu Sari stall) | IDR 75,000 | USD 5 | Reusable; culturally respectful |
| Local offering (donation) | IDR 10,000–50,000 | USD 0.7–3.5 | Bring cash; exact amount depends on temple |
Safety warnings and incidents I’ve seen
While training instructor candidates, we’ve had three key incidents that taught me to prepare:
- Slip & fall at temple steps: stone steps can be mossy after rain. I now always carry a small first-aid kit and advise trainees to wear grippy sandals.
- Overcrowding during Galungan: I once had to reroute a group because a procession blocked the coastal road — leave extra travel time (add 30–60 minutes) on festival days.
- Unplanned Ngaben: If you’re near a cremation, ask politely if photos are acceptable. I once saw an uninvited tourist photographed a sensitive moment — locals were upset; we apologized and offered a donation to repair relations.
Emergency & local facility contacts
- General emergency: 112 (works across Indonesia)
- Local health clinic (Puskesmas Nusa Penida) — visit for non-life-threatening injuries; opening hours often 08:00–15:00 weekdays.
- Dive operator emergency channel: ask your operator for their WhatsApp emergency contact (I maintain a list for my trainees).
- ATMs: main ATM located in Toya Pakeh market area (bring cash for village ceremonies — many places are cash-only).
Cultural etiquette tourists often miss
- Never step over someone praying; walk behind them. Say "Permisi" (pehr-mee-see) to politely pass.
- If a priest offers a blessing, accept with your right hand and avoid taking selfies during the ritual.
- Don’t remove offerings (sesajen) for photos. If you want a close-up, ask "Boleh foto dekat?" (May I photograph closely?).
Sustainable & responsible tourism tips
When I’m training instructors, our environmental brief always includes cultural respect: use reusable water bottles, avoid trampling vegetation, and donate small amounts to temple funds if you benefit from access. If offered traditional food, accept graciously — it’s a vital exchange of trust.
Troubleshooting common problems
- Lost scooter keys? Many rentals keep a spare with a neighbor; Dewa Scooter has a local pick-up point in Ped (ask your dive operator).
- Forbidden to photograph? Step back and take environmental or silhouette shots instead — these still tell the story.
- Missed the ceremony? Ask Pak Made or Bu Sari for the next odalan date; villagers are often happy to let you attend the next one.
Conclusion — my recommendation as a trainer and guide
If you only plan dives, you’re missing a layer of Penida that makes every surface interval more meaningful. When I train new dive instructors here, I deliberately schedule temple visits into the course: they build humility, local connection and safer surface-interval behavior. If you want the authentic experience, tell your dive operator you’re open to cultural days, rent a scooter through Dewa Scooter, buy a sarong from Bu Sari, and keep mornings free — that’s when most ceremonies bloom. Bring respect, small cash, and a camera with good low-light capability. You’ll leave with better photos, deeper friendships, and a story that’s uniquely Penida.
Final local phrases: "Terima kasih" (te-ree-mah kah-seeh) = Thank you; "Boleh foto?" (boh-lay fo-toh) = May I take a photo?; "Permisi" (pehr-mee-see) = Excuse me.