After ten years of observing tourist patterns here on Nusa Penida — from honeymooners who want calm shallow reefs to hard-core tech divers chasing mola-mola — I still get the same question: "Where should I dive first?" I became a dive instructor and island guide to answer that, and along the way I kept notes: which boats leave on time, which warung serves the best post-dive mie goreng, where currents bite, and how tourists learn the island's unspoken rules the hard way. This is the guide I wish every diver had when they first stepped off the speedboat at Toya Pakeh.

Why my perspective matters

I've taught 2,000+ dives, rented scooters to guests, guided photographers to manta cleaning stations, and watched the same mistakes repeated around peak season. After ten years of observing tourist patterns, I know which dive sites need careful planning, which local operators are reliable, and how to save time and money without risking safety.

Quick logistics (must-read)

• Best season: April–October = dry, clearer water, best visibility; July–Oct peak for mola-mola in Crystal Bay. November–March = wetter, more currents and reduced visibility.
• Boat schedule: Most dive boats depart Toya Pakeh or Sampalan harbor around 07:00. Check-in at dive center 06:15–06:45. Bring printed dive license and logbook.
• Typical prices: One two-tank boat dive ~ IDR 650,000–900,000 (USD 42–58); discovery/diver try dives ~ IDR 900,000 (USD 60). See price table below.
• Transport: Fast boat from Sanur to Toya Pakeh 30–40 min. Scooter rental on Penida: IDR 70,000–120,000/day (USD 4.50–8). Allow 30–60 min between harbor and most accommodations.

15 best dive sites (with difficulty levels & GPS)

Below are the sites I guide most often, with real notes from ten years of watching guests’ strengths and mistakes.

• 1. Crystal Bay (Difficulty: Moderate–Advanced) — approx GPS -8.7968, 115.4752. Famous for mola-mola July–Oct and dramatic walls. Strong thermoclines; ideal for experienced divers. Surface interval on shore at Warung Sunrise (Toyapakeh road).
• 2. Manta Point / Gamat Bay (Difficulty: Easy–Moderate) — approx GPS -8.7250, 115.4500. Cleaning stations for mantas; often shallow. Best morning 07:30–10:30. Respect manta approach rules: no vertical silhouettes, no chasing.
• 3. Toyapakeh Wall (Difficulty: Advanced) — approx GPS -8.7102, 115.4457. Strong currents; drift skills required. I once called a mid-dive pick-up for a separated buddy here — always assign a surface marker buoy (SMB).
• 4. Blue Corner (Difficulty: Advanced) — approx GPS -8.7320, 115.4605. Fast currents, steep walls and pelagics. Best with current-tolerant divers.
• 5. Ped (Ped Rock) (Difficulty: Moderate) — approx GPS -8.7195, 115.4350. Great for reef photography, turtles, and macro life. Shallow entry points for camera rinse at Toya Pakeh harbor.
• 6. SD Point (Difficulty: Moderate–Advanced) — approx GPS -8.7400, 115.4430. Similar to Toya in current and pelagics.
• 7. Broken Bay (Difficulty: Moderate) — approx GPS -8.7483, 115.4589. Good for wide-angle and coral structures.
• 8. Crystal Bay Inside (Difficulty: Easy–Moderate) — approx GPS -8.7960, 115.4780. Calm reef for less confident divers; good for macro and wide shots.
• 9. Tumbak Bay (Difficulty: Easy) — approx GPS -8.7221, 115.4429. Protected bay for newer divers; sheltered shore entries exist.
• 10. Raja Samping (Difficulty: Advanced) — approx GPS -8.7356, 115.4499. Occasional large pelagics and current lines.
• 11. Seraya Secret (Difficulty: Moderate) — approx GPS -8.7444, 115.4622. Fantastic macro; bring a 60mm macro lens.
• 12. Manta Ridge (Difficulty: Moderate) — approx GPS -8.7212, 115.4521. Cleaner stations popular; mid-morning best.
• 13. Sentalan/SD Wall (Difficulty: Advanced) — approx GPS -8.7371, 115.4473. For drift-trained divers only.
• 14. Palm Bay (Difficulty: Easy) — approx GPS -8.7128, 115.4400. Calm site for check-out dives and training.
• 15. Toya Shallows (Difficulty: Easy) — approx GPS -8.7190, 115.4440. Great for snorkelers and discovery dives.

How I grade difficulty

I use three categories: Easy (calm, shallow, minimal current), Moderate (some current, deeper walls, entry skills needed), Advanced (strong currents, drift dives, deeper thermoclines). After ten years, I always ask divers about their last 20 logged dives — that’s a better predictor than the license card.

Step-by-step: Booking & day-of routine

1. Choose operator based on review + local reputation (I recommend TwoFish Divers Nusa Penida or Penida Dive Center for consistency). Book 3–7 days ahead in high season; 24–48 hours often works in low season.
2. Confirm pick-up: most operators collect from Sampalan/Toya Pakeh harbor. Check-in 06:15–06:45; boats leave 07:00. Ask for a printed invoice.
3. Bring: dive card, logbook, ID copy, local currency (cash). Wear reef-safe sunscreen and a rash vest.
4. On boat: briefings at 06:50. Assign buddies and leader. Tow an SMB for drift sites (carry a reel). I carry a whistle and a small knife.
5. Post-dive: rinse gear with fresh water (ask the dive center where water point is). Tip guides IDR 50,000–100,000 ($3–7) per day if you had a great day.

Price comparison

Package	Budget Operator	Mid-range	Premium
Single two-tank dive	IDR 600,000 (~USD 39)	IDR 750,000 (~USD 49)	IDR 950,000 (~USD 62)
Discover (try-dive)	IDR 850,000 (~USD 55)	IDR 950,000 (~USD 62)	IDR 1,200,000 (~USD 78)
Equipment rental (full set)	IDR 150,000/day (~USD 10)	IDR 200,000/day (~USD 13)	IDR 300,000/day (~USD 20)

Insider tips that save time & money

• Book combos: Combine two consecutive mornings to maximize chance for mantas and mola-mola — operators often give a small discount (IDR 50,000–100,000 off total).
• Eat local: Post-dive Warung Bu Sari (near Toya Pakeh) serves complete meals for IDR 30,000–45,000 (USD 2–3). I send students there; the fried fish is healing after cold water.
• Save time: Ask your hotel to prepare a packed breakfast the night before; fastest way to get on the 07:00 boat.
• Rent gear smart: If you’re picky about masks/mouthpieces, bring them. Rent BCD/regulator locally if you want lower price but check both first.

Safety warnings & real incidents

I once watched a new diver panic in Toyapakeh currents because they hadn’t used an SMB; the boat had to perform a 20-minute search. Another time a diver ignored ear equalization advice and needed an immediate clinic visit. Always announce ear issues early, carry a surface marker buoy, and never dive solo. If you suspect decompression sickness, call local emergency 112 and notify your operator. The nearest hyperbaric facilities are on Bali mainland — ask your operator for transfer plans.

Cultural etiquette & local customs

• Greet shop owners: say "Selamat pagi" (sehr-lah-maht pah-gee) for good morning and "Terima kasih" (teh-ree-mah kah-see) to say thank you.
• Dress modestly when off the beach; cover shoulders when visiting temples. Avoid loud behavior near family compounds — locals appreciate calm tourists.
• Support local businesses: drink kopi at Warung Putu, buy hand-woven sarongs from Bu Santi — small purchases go far.

Photography & Instagram tips

• For mantas: wide-angle, 0.4–0.6 sec shutter at ISO 200–400 with strobes. Best shots mid-morning at cleaning stations.
• For macro (Seraya Secret): 60mm macro, close focus, and dim lighting to reveal colors. Ask your guide for the seahorse patch GPS (they know the micro-habits).
• Top-view shots of Toya Pakeh harbor at golden hour — head to the jetty near Penida Colada at 17:30.

Emergency & practical contacts

• General emergency (Indonesia): 112 (ask your dive operator to call local services)
• Police (tourist incidents): 110
• Local clinic & Puskesmas (ask your hotel for exact number and location) — many operators coordinate transfers to Bali hyperbaric chambers if needed.
• Reliable operators I recommend by reputation: TwoFish Divers Nusa Penida, Penida Dive Center. Ask for guides Dwi or Pak Made — local names that mean they know currents and seamounts.

Final recommendations (my personal picks)

From a decade watching patterns, my tailored picks: if you have only one day, do a morning Manta Point + Crystal Bay combo. If you’re a photographer, book three days: macro at Seraya Secret, mantas morning, mola-mola at Crystal Bay on a calm day (July–Oct). For families and novices, stick to Ped, Palm Bay, and Toya Shallows.

Remember: respect the reef, respect the locals, and dive with humility. I still get a thrill when a first-time diver sees a manta and whispers "wow" in Bahasa: "Wah, bagus!" — that moment is why I stayed on this island for ten years, watching and learning with every guest.

See you at the mooring — Pak Made at the harbor will save you time, and Bu Sari will save your hunger. Sampai jumpa!