The morning the National Geographic photographer and I climbed down the steep steps into Crystal Bay, the light was perfect — a thin ribbon of sun cutting into a blue bowl. He wanted the mola-mola at first light; I wanted to show him the ecosystem that keeps tourists returning to Nusa Penida. Over 10 years guiding here, and after three shoots with foreign magazines and one close call (more on that at SD Point), I’ve learned every current, warung, and shortcut between these three famous sites: Crystal Bay, Gamat Bay, and SD Point. This is the Eco Tourism Nusa Penida guide I wish I'd had before that assignment — raw, precise, and built around real, local connections (Pak Made, Bu Sari, Warung Sunrise) and practical, money-saving tips.

Quick comparison: the three sites at a glance

• Crystal Bay — best for mola-mola season, snorkeling, clear water, easy shore access. GPS: -8.7395, 115.4525
• Gamat Bay — macro life, sheltered walls, calmer currents, great for photographers needing time. GPS: -8.7258, 115.4659
• SD Point — dramatic drop-offs, strong drift dives, manta cleaning stations nearby. GPS: -8.7061, 115.4872

My story with the National Geographic photographer

I was guiding Agus, a Nat Geo photographer, who flew in with a 70-200 lens and a soft heart for macro life. On day one we chased a mola in Crystal Bay at 06:10 — the boat (Penida Eco Dive) left Toya Pakeh harbor at 05:30. On day two at SD Point a sudden current pulled Agus’s lightweight housing from his grip; I’d practiced the emergency camera-rope drill with him that we use at Penida Dive Centre the week before, and we saved the kit. After that, Agus trusted my local contacts: Bu Sari at Warung Sunrise for seaweed snacks and Pak Made’s scooter for fast runs to vantage points. That trust is what I’m sharing here.

Detailed site profiles

Crystal Bay (Crystal-clear schooling & mola season)

Best time: July–October for mola-mola; mornings 06:00–09:30 for best light and calmer water. Entrance & access: easy shore entry with stone steps; parking small lot by Warung Sunrise. GPS: -8.7395, 115.4525. Travel time: 25–35 minutes by scooter from Toya Pakeh (road partly paved).

• Typical dive cost: IDR 750,000–1,000,000 (USD 50–70) for two dives incl. boat with local operators (Penida Eco Dive, Topi Dive Nusa Penida).
• Snorkelers: boat + guide IDR 200,000 (USD 13).
• Nearby warung: Warung Sunrise (iced coffee IDR 20,000 / USD 1.30; nasi goreng IDR 30,000 / USD 2).

Insider tip: Ask the boat to drop you at Crystal Bay first — early window reduces chance of heavy swell. If you’re photographing mola, plan for two consecutive mornings (mola are fickle).

Gamat Bay (macro, walls & calm shooting conditions)

Best time: year-round; quieter during rainy season (Jan–Mar). GPS: -8.7258, 115.4659. Travel time: 20–30 minutes from Toya Pakeh. Entrance: short boat or shore entry depending on operator.

• Typical dive cost: IDR 650,000–900,000 (USD 45–63) for two-dive day trips with local operators (Rasta Dive, Penida Macro Tours).
• Macro-focus gear rental (macro arms, diopters): IDR 100,000–200,000/day (USD 7–14).
• Local warung: Warung Made — try the fresh ikan bakar (IDR 40,000 / USD 2.70).

Insider tip: For macro shots, request a longer surface interval (our Nat Geo shoot used 90 minutes) so the photographer has time to change strobes and lenses on the beach at Pak Made’s shaded table.

SD Point (drifts, cliffs & mantas nearby)

Best time: May–September for clearer seas and mantas near Cleaning Stations. GPS: -8.7061, 115.4872. Travel time: 35–50 minutes from Toya Pakeh depending on road conditions; final approach is a steep dirt road — ask Pak Made to drop you at the upper car park.

• Typical dive cost: IDR 800,000–1,200,000 (USD 55–85) for drift dives; manta boat extras IDR 150,000 (USD 10) if not part of the package.
• Guide recommendation: insist on an experienced skipper; currents can flip inexperienced plans fast.

Safety story: At SD Point I once pulled a diver off a rip current using the “camera-rope” method while Agus filmed rescue technique footage for a magazine. Do not underestimate the current here — if your guide hesitates, refuse the entry.

Costs, comparison table, and money-saving hacks

Site	2-dive day (IDR)	Snorkel/Single dive (IDR)	Best for
Crystal Bay	750,000–1,000,000	200,000	Mola, clear water
Gamat Bay	650,000–900,000	180,000	Macro photography
SD Point	800,000–1,200,000	220,000	Drift dives, mantas

• Save by booking multi-day packages with local operators: 3-day combos with gear and transfers drop daily average to IDR 700k/day (USD 48).
• Use Pak Made’s scooter (IDR 75,000/day, USD 5) to reach viewpoints and warungs instead of taxis — negotiate hard and get a helmet.
• Bring your own weights and mask: rental saves IDR 50k–150k/day but adds up.

Booking, timing, and logistics

Book at least 48–72 hours ahead in high season (July–September). Recommended local operators I use: Penida Eco Dive (morning boats), Topi Dive Nusa Penida (photo-friendly), and Rasta Dive for macro days. Most accept WhatsApp bookings; show up at Toya Pakeh port 30 minutes before departure. Boat leaves on time — if you’re late, you’ll miss the window.

Where to stay / eat / rent

• Stay: Semabu Hills Hotel for reliable WiFi and pickups (higher budget), Penida Bambu Green for mid-range, local homestays for budget.
• Eat: Warung Sunrise (Crystal Bay), Warung Made (Gamat Bay), Bu Sari’s Warung near SD Point parking.
• Scooter: Pak Made Scooter Rental (IDR 75k/day). Always test brakes; roads are steep and gravelly near SD Point.

What to bring and photography tips

• Essential gear: 3–5kg weight belt, ear drops, reef-safe sunscreen (SPF 30 mineral), dive torch, spare fin strap.
• Camera tips: for macro at Gamat use a 60mm macro, low strobe power; at Crystal, use wide-angle + 0.6–1.0x wet wide; at SD Point shoot into the current for manta silhouettes.
• Instagram tip: sunrise at Crystal Bay from the northern rock (walk 7 minutes east of the main steps) — bring polarizer for shore shots.

Safety, cultural etiquette, and sustainability

• Safety: Currents at SD Point can change in minutes — always check your guide’s plan. I’ve seen two boat swaps in one morning because skippers misread the swell; refuse the dive if the entry feels unsafe.
• Cultural etiquette: Greet elders with “Selamat pagi” (seh-lah-maht pah-gee) and always remove shoes entering small family warungs. If a local offers you a coconut, accept with both hands — say “Terima kasih” (te-ree-mah kah-see).
• Sustainability: Use reef-safe sunscreen, refuse single-use plastic bottled water (bring a reusable bottle — many warungs will refill), and tip local skippers (IDR 50k–100k / USD 3–7) if they helped secure a great shot or handled rough entries.

Emergency & practical contacts

• General emergency (Indonesia): 112
• Ambulance (Bali region): 118 or 119
• Local clinic: Puskesmas Nusa Penida (ask at Semabu Hills or Toya Pakeh port for directions)
• ATM / cash: Toya Pakeh harbor has the main ATM; bring cash — smaller warungs do not accept cards.

Troubleshooting common problems

• Camera housing leak: carry silica sachets and a basic housing spares kit. If a leak happens, get to the boat and rinse with fresh water then check seals — Bu Sari’s shaded table is my field-station for lens swaps.
• Motion sickness: buy meclizine or ginger candy from Toya Pakeh pharmacy — take 30–60 minutes pre-boat.
• Missed boat: most operators will reschedule same-day for IDR 100k–200k extra; show proof of hotel booking to avoid no-show fees.

Conclusion & my recommendation

If you have one day: choose Crystal Bay for the spectacle and easy logistics. Two days: add Gamat for patient macro work. Three days: include SD Point for the full mix of pelagic drama and drift training. For eco-tourists: prioritize operators that enforce no-touch policies, use reef-safe sunscreen, and hire local crew (ask your operator explicitly). My final tip from guiding Agus — invest in a good local guide (ask for someone who’s guided a National Geographic shoot before). They’ll protect your kit, your schedule, and your memories. Selamat menyelam — and remember to say hi to Pak Made and Bu Sari for me.