During the full moon ceremony last week I was up before dawn, sitting on the low wall of my guesthouse in Ped, watching hundreds of lanterns and offerings move toward Sampalan harbor. The scent of frangipani mixed with motor oil and ocean spray, and Pak Made from Warung Sunrise lit a small candle and whispered that the island felt especially generous that night. That memory frames every recommendation in this guide: where to stay, why it matters, and how to save money, time and stress on Nusa Penida.

Main areas to consider

Use these quick GPS anchors when you search and when you show locations to local drivers or owners.

• Toya Pakeh / Sampalan (North) — GPS: -8.71020, 115.46070. Best for ferry access and fast-boat arrivals.
• Crystal Bay / Banjar Nyuh (West) — GPS: -8.71590, 115.44050. Sunset views, good snorkeling nearby.
• Kelingking / West Cliffs (South-West) — GPS: -8.73730, 115.42880. Iconic viewpoints, steep roads.
• Ped / Buyuk (Central) — GPS: -8.72010, 115.49530. Island heart: markets, shops, cheapest homestays.
• Atuh / Diamond Beach (East) — GPS: -8.73780, 115.55940. Dramatic cliffs, longer drives.

How I judge an area (my local criteria)

• Distance to harbor: fewer transfers = less money and time.
• Road quality: steepness and recent landslide history.
• Services nearby: warungs, ATMs, clinics, wifi cafes.
• Community vibe during events: during the full moon ceremony last week some homestays hosted offerings and invited guests — check respect levels.

Accommodation types and exact price ranges

I split options into budget, mid-range and luxury with real price examples based on my bookings and the offers I saw during the full moon week.

Type	Typical Price (IDR)	Typical Price (USD)	Example
Budget homestay / dorm	150,000 - 350,000	$10 - $23	Homestay Bu Sari (Ped) — 200,000 IDR/night
Mid-range bungalow	400,000 - 1,000,000	$25 - $65	Warung Sunrise Bungalows (Toya Pakeh) — 600,000 IDR/night
Luxury villa / resort	1,500,000 - 4,000,000+	$100 - $260+	Semabu Hills Villa (north ridge) — 2,500,000 IDR/night

Insider price note

During the full moon ceremony last week many owners charged a 10-20% premium for rooms if you booked the same day. If you can plan, book 2-4 weeks ahead for full moon and 4-8 weeks for high season (July-August, Dec-Jan). Low season (Feb-March) you can often negotiate 20-30% off, especially for 3+ night stays.

Specific recommendations by traveler type

Fast-ferry arrivals and minimal transfers

Stay near Toya Pakeh / Sampalan. Example: Penida Colada guesthouse (north pier walk 7 minutes). Walk to the harbor with luggage, avoid expensive transfer taxis. Typical taxi-pickup fee from harbor: 100,000 - 150,000 IDR ($6.50 - $10) — you can often walk or pay a local porter 20,000 IDR.

Best for photographers

Stay in Kelingking/West Cliffs for sunrise vantage points. I recommend Rumah Putih - small, 800,000 IDR/night, host Bu Sari arranges sunrise pickups at 04:30. Tip: during the full moon ceremony last week the cliffside glow was amazing for long exposures — bring ND filters and secure your tripod; local winds are strong.

Budget travelers and backpackers

Ped/Buyuk: homestays like Bu Sari and Pak Made's rooms are 150k-300k IDR/night and located near the local market and an ATM. Negotiate with 'boleh nego?' (boh-lay nay-go) — locals expect a small haggle for multi-night stays.

Logistics: getting here and around

• Fast boat Sanur to Toya Pakeh: 150,000 - 300,000 IDR one-way ($10 - $20). Travel time: 30-50 minutes depending on sea. Arrive early: check-in opens 07:00, last afternoon fast boats around 16:00-17:00 depending on season.
• Scooter rental: 70,000 - 150,000 IDR/day ($5 - $10). Deposit: 100,000 - 200,000 IDR or passport copy. Recommended rental: Pak Wayan Scooter, ask around Sampalan harbor.
• Private driver: 500,000 - 1,000,000 IDR/day ($33 - $65) depending on distance (Atuh is more due to fuel/time).

Step-by-step: booking last-minute safely

1. Arrive at Sampalan harbor and walk 100-200m to the cluster of warungs and homestays.
2. Ask for ‘kamar kosong’ (available room) and show your ID — many owners prefer WhatsApp messages with photos of yourself and luggage.
3. Check the room for hot water, mosquito net, and secure door lock. Ask for a receipt (struk) and the owner’s name — write it down.
4. If you need a scooter, test-drive it 50-100m and check brakes; document any existing scratches on your phone to avoid deposit disputes.

Safety warnings and incidents I witnessed

I witnessed a serious scooter crash on the descent to Kelingking last year during a sudden rain shower: poor tyres + late-night driving + narrow concrete = danger. Safety rules:

• Always wear a helmet and a jacket. Roads are steep and many stretches are unguarded cliffs.
• Avoid driving after 18:30 — few streetlights and many animals on the road.
• If it rains, stop and wait; landslide risk on some east-facing tracks (Atuh route) — check with locals or your host before heading out.

Cultural etiquette (essential during ceremonies)

• During the full moon ceremony last week I learned to ask before photographing people taking part. If someone says 'tidak' (tee-dahk), respect it.
• Wear a sarong and sash for temple visits — many homestays lend a kain. Say 'permisi' (per-mee-see) to pass through narrow paths.
• Do not step over offerings on the ground; avoid touching canang sari (small offerings).

Photography and Instagram tips

• Golden hour: sunrise ~06:00, sunset ~18:00 (seasonal variation): check local sunrise times on day of visit.
• Best compositions: Kelingking from the north ridge at 05:40 during low haze; Diamond Beach via the upper viewpoint for layered cliffs.
• Drone use: ask local Banjar leaders or your host; some areas are sensitive during ceremonies and drone may be stopped.

Saving money — real insider tricks

• Book 3+ nights directly with homestay owners and ask for a simple rice-cooked breakfast included — many will drop 10-20% off the nightly rate.
• Share a private car for east-coast trips: cost split 4 ways is much cheaper than solo private driver.
• Eat where locals eat: Warung Sunrise and Warung Bu Sari do nasi campur for 25,000 - 40,000 IDR ($1.50 - $2.50).

Emergency & practical contacts

• Emergency: 112 (national), Police: 110.
• Puskesmas (local clinic) — visit Sampalan clinic for non-life-threatening issues; many homestays can call a motorbike ambulance.
• ATM: the nearest reliable ATM is in Ped/Boyong; bring cash as many warungs are cash-only.

Conclusion — my personal recommendations

If you want convenience and fewer transfers, stay near Toya Pakeh. For iconic photos, stay near Kelingking. For the local heartbeat and lowest prices pick Ped/Buyuk. During the full moon ceremony last week I stayed with Bu Sari in Ped, helped carry offerings to the shore at midnight, and still managed a dawn surf and reliable scooter rental from Pak Wayan for 90,000 IDR/day. That balance of culture, community and practicality is Nusa Penida at its best. If you remember one thing: book ahead for ceremonies, carry cash, wear a helmet, and always ask permission before photographing ritual moments — island hospitality will reward you with unforgettable experiences.

What to bring: sarong, basic first-aid, phone power bank, IDR cash, good shoes for cliffs, ND filter for cameras.